[Review] Majestic Restaurant.
Majestic Restaurant, located on the first floor of the New Majestic Hotel, has been around for quite a while, garnering dozens of accolades for its cuisine, including the 2012 World Gourmet Summit Asian Gastronomic Awards of Excellence for Asian Restaurant of the Year and 2011 Gourmet & Travel Magazine G Restaurant Awards Winner for Most Innovative Menu and Best Business Lunch, just to name a few.
Helmed by Chef Yong Bing Ngen who has led the kitchens of renowned local Chinese restaurants like Hai Tien Lo at Pan Pacific Hotel and Jade at Fullertant Hotel, Majestic offers Cantonese cuisine with an emphasis on modern interpretations of classic dishes. The decor reflects this same modern philosophy, with an open kitchen concept, banquette booths, ceiling portholes that look up into the hotel's swimming pool (definitely a little creepy - imagine hotel guests staring down hungrily at your meal) and overall clean, stylish lines.
As you probably know, Daniel and I aren't fussy about ambience. As long as the food delivers, we can forgive a lot. We ordered a premium (ie. expensive at $40++) set and a deluxe (ie. even more expensive at $60++) set for lunch. Note there is a minimum 2 pax order for the same menu - we were with family and ordered 2 of the premium and deluxe sets, fulfilling this requirement.
Both sets came with a trio of items - peking duck, foie gras and salted egg prawn for the premium set. The prawn was "upgraded" to Thai-style soft shell crab topped with sliced green mango and drizzled with a chili sauce in the deluxe set. All the elements were well-executed, but none really stood out. I do have to say though (speaking as an absolute foie gras fiend - animal activists, please don't stone me!) that I was suitably impressed by the generous slices of foie gras considering the relative affordability of the sets.
Trio of soft shell crab, foie gras and peking duck (deluxe)
However modern Majestic's food is, Chef Yong didn't forget to retain the single most defining component of any true Cantonese meal - the soup course, served here in the form of double-boiled soup with shark's fin, chicken and black mushroom. The deluxe set even had abalone and a slice of black truffle, giving a much richer flavour. Oh well, you do get what you pay for.
For mains, we had the puzzling East-West pairings of rib-eye with kimchi, and beef tenderloin with Chinese-style XO stir-fried carrot cake. The tenderloin easily won this battle of the steaks hands-down, the rib-eye being too greasy. But the overall star, unlikely as it seems, was the carrot cake! With crisp edges and a soft but not mushy interior, Majestic's carrot cake was as good, if not better, than your favourite hawker version. Which is saying a lot since Daniel and I firmly believe restaurant food more often than not pales in comparison with the best hawker food.
Rib-eye steak with kimchi and broccoli (premium)
Tenderloin steak with XO carrot cake (deluxe)
The deluxe set also included this beancurd dish in which, ironically, the humble beancurd outshone its more expensive seafood counterpart. Best described as meltingly soft and silky in the mouth.
Home-made beancurd with baby abalone
A small serving of Majestic's signature dish, the boston lobster stewed noodles, formed part of the premium set, but I'm sad to say that it disappointed. The noodles were al-dente, but lacked the sweet lobster flavour I was hoping for. And while fresh and generous, the lobster pieces were fairly tasteless.
The meal was rounded off with a selection of desserts - the most popular ones being Majestic's batter-fried durian ice cream, and durian puree with gula melaka - which will appeal to hardcore fans of the stinky fruit.
Chilled "mao shan wang" durian with gula melaka
Just as we ended our meal, we spotted Chef Yong himself discussing where to display his latest trophy (they had evidently run out of space in the front of house area) with his staff and grabbed a quick photo opportunity.
I'm not totally convinced that Majestic's cuisine is truly innovative. When I think of innovation, I expect extraordinary techniques to be applied with unusual ingredients and flavours (ala Heston Blumenthal), rather than just familiar non-Chinese flavours placed on the same plate alongside traditional Chinese ones. But notwithstanding this, all the dishes were well-executed and delicious, making Majestic worth a repeat visit.
Majestic Restaurant is at New Majestic Hotel, 31-37 Bukit Pasoh Road. Note that its menu changes from time to time, and some of the dishes mentioned here may not be available.
- Esther



















































